Patrymau a phatrymau mwslin

Gweithio yn y stiwdio

Mae Covid 19 wedi peri llawer o broblemau anodd i’r prosiect Cragen Beca, gan gynnwys y posibilrwydd o gydweithio yn yr un ystafell gyda chydweithwyr creadigol. Mae Louise a minnau wedi bod yn gweithio gyda’n gilydd ers blwyddyn bellach, yn cysylltu trwy Zoom a WhatsApp, yn rhannu syniadau ac yn addasu dyluniadau o bell. Yr haf diwethaf roeddem yn gallu cwrdd yn yr awyr agored a siarad dros syniadau yn bersonol, ond ym mis Mai eleni roedd yn gymaint o ryddhad i allu gweithio ochr yn ochr â’n gilydd o’r diwedd i ddechrau torri patrymau a gwneud patrymau mwslin ar gyfer y gwisgoedd Rebecca.

Working in the Studio

Covid 19 has brought many tricky problems for the Cragen Beca project, not least of which is the possibility of working together in the same room with creative collaborators. Louise and I have been working together for a year now, Zooming and WhatsApp-ing, sharing ideas and tweaking designs remotely. Last summer we could meet outdoors and talk through ideas in person, but in May this year, it was such a relief to finally be able to work alongside each other to start cutting patterns and making toiles for the Rebecca costumes.

Casgliad Margaret Bide

  1. Casgliad pwysig o wisgoedd Cymreig yn cael ei werthu.

Aeth Casgliad Margaret Bide o arteffactau Cymreig, gan gynnwys casgliad cynhwysfawr o wisgoedd Cymreig o’r 19eg Ganrif, ar werth yn nhŷ arwerthu Peter Francis yng Nghaerfyrddin ar 12 Mai.

Aeth Louise a minnau i weld y casgliad a oedd yn cynnwys enghreifftiau hyfryd o flancedi Cymreig a wnaed ar fframiau gwau cul, yn ogystal â betgynau, sgertiau a pheisiau o’r cyfnod.


The Margaret Bide Collection of Welsh artifacts, including a comprehensive collection of 19th century Welsh costume, went on sale at Peter Francis Auction house on 12 May.

Louise and I went to visit view the collection which included lovely examples of narrow loom Welsh blankets as well as betgwns, skirts and petticoats of the era.

Pocedi Sir Gaerfyrddin

Pocedi brodwaith cain o Amgueddfa Sir Gaerfyrddin.

Cyn canol y 19eg Ganrif nid oedd pocedi yn rhan annatod o ddillad menywod ond roeddynt yn cael eu gwisgo fel eitem ar wahân o dan y sgert uchaf. 

Ymwelais ag Amgueddfa Sir Gaerfyrddin ddoe i edrych ar set o bocedi cain arbennig yn y casgliad.

Gwneir yr eitemau hardd hyn o frethyn main ar y blaen gyda chotwm neu liain cotwm caerog ar y cefn. Mae wyneb y boced wedi’i frodio â gwaith croesbwytho manwl ac mae’n cynnwys enw’r crefftwr, sef Mary Davis. Mae tystiolaeth eu bod wedi cael eu hatgyweirio ac mae ôl traul arnynt sy’n awgrymu bod eu perchennog yn hoff iawn ohonynt. Mae’n rhwydd dychmygu eu bod o bosibl yn drysor teuluol cyn eu rhoi i’r amgueddfa.


Prior to the mid to late 19th Century, ladies’ pockets were not intergral to clothing but worn as a separate item under the over skirt.

I visited Carmarthenshire Museum yesterday to look at a set of particularly fine pockets in the collection.

These beautiful objects are made of fine wool on the front with cotton or linen ticking on the reverse. The face of the pocket has been embroidered with a delicate cross stitch and features the maker’s name, Mary Davis. There is evidence of repairs and wear which suggest that they were well loved. It’s easy to imagine that they may have been passed down as a family heirloom before being donated to the museum.

Betgwn: Carmarthenshire Museum

Welsh betgwn at Carmarthenshire Museum

Rwyf wrth fy modd ein bod wedi gallu ymweld ag Amgueddfa Sir Gaerfyrddin heddiw i gwrdd â’r Cadwraethwr Joanne Cook ac edrych ar ddau fetgwn Cymreig gwreiddiol o’r casgliad.

Rydym yn gwneud betgwn ar gyfer un o’n tair gwisg Rebecca ac mae Louise wedi bod yn meddwl am sut i’w wneud drwy edrych ar adnoddau ar-lein. Roedd yn wych gallu cael golwg ar y dillad yn ofalus i ddeall mwy am sut maen nhw’n cael eu creu.

Gwnaed y betgynau ar ddechrau a chanol y 19eg ganrif ac maent yn wlanen â stribiau coch a du gyda chyffiau sidan wedi’u marcio â dŵr. Cafodd y darnau eu pwytho â llaw. Roedd Joanne hefyd wedi dewis eitemau eraill o ddillad i’n dangos ni. Dwy bais wlân mewn patrymau stribed a ffedog wlanen siec. Roedd yr eitemau wedi’u gwisgo’n dda ac roedd yn arbennig gweld y marciau traul gan eu perchnogion. Band gwasg lliain wedi’i wisgo’n dda; botymau gwahanol a thyllau botymau wedi’u hatgyweirio; rhwygau wedi’u trwsio; ymylon wedi’u gwisgo a’u treulio.


I’m delighted that we were able to visit Carmarthenshire Museum today to meet Conservator Joanne Cook and look at two of the original Welsh flannel betgwns from the collection.

We’re making a betgwn for one of our three Rebecca costumes and Louise has been puzzling over the construction from online resources. It was great to be able to have a look at the garments closely to understand more about how they are put together.

The betgwns were made in the early and mid-19th Century and are red and black striped flannel with water marked silk cuffs. The pieces were stitched by hand.

Joanne had also selected a few other garments to show us as well. Two woollen petticoats in stripe patterns and a blue check flannel apron. The pieces had been well worn and it was poignant to see the marks of wear and tear that had been left by their owners. A well-worn linen waistband; mismatched buttons and repaired buttonholes; mended tears; worn and fraying edges.

Louise has tested out the betgwn design in miniature to understand the pattern before we make it up to full size for the our third Rebecca costume.

betgwn pattern in miniature

Miniatur Rebecca

Maquette of Rebecca costume

Yn profi gwisgoedd Rebecca.

Fel rhan o’r broses o greu ein tair gwisg Cragen Beca, mae Louise a fi yn gyntaf oll yn creu’r patrymau sylfaenol yn fach ar gyfer mannequin 18 ”. Mae’n ffordd wych o brofi mecaneg y gwisgoedd cyn i ni ymrwymo i’w gwneud yn llawn.

Dyma Rebecca o’r orymdaith yng Nghaerfyrddin ar 19 Mehefin 1843. Dywedir wrthym ei bod “…ornamented with a profusion of curls…” a marchogaeth ceffyl gwyn mawr.


Rebecca in Miniature

Trying out Rebecca’s costume.

As part of the process of creating our three Cragen Beca costumes, Louise and I are first of all creating the basic patterns in miniature for an 18” mannequin. It’s a great way to test out the mechanics of the costumes before we commit to making them up at full size.

Here is Rebecca from the Carmarthen march of 19 June 1843. We are told that she was “…ornamented with a profusion of curls…” and rode a large white horse.

Yesterday’s Fashion

Ffasiwn trwy’r blynyddoedd yn Sir Gaerfyrddin

Rydym yn ffodus iawn yn Sir Gaerfyrddin i gael casgliad hyfryd o ddillad a gwisgoedd hanesyddol ar garreg ein drws.

Terry Smith sydd y tu ôl i’r casgliad, o’r enw Yesterday’s Fashion, sydd wedi’i leoli mewn dwy ysgubor wedi’u trosi. Mae’r casgliad yn cynnwys: “…racks and racks of dress, Victorian, Edwardian and every subsequent decade…everything from head to toe, hats and shoes, underwear, coats, children’s dress and accesories and all the ephemera that goes with it…”.

Mae Terry wedi bod yn ddigon caredig i’m helpu gyda rhywfaint o’r ymchwil y tu ôl i ddyluniadau gwisgoedd Rebecca. Roedd gen i ddiddordeb arbennig mewn dysgu am y crinolinau yn oes Fictoria.

Dywedodd Terry: “At the time of the Rebecca Riots the cage crinoline had yet to be inventd (patented 1856). A variety of petticoats would have been used. There were stiff ‘crinoline’ petticoats (not to be confused with the cage) of horsehair and linen (later cotton) and petticoats stiffened with starching, cording, straw braiding and even whalebone. They were worn in layers to give a smooth silhouette and could be topped with something like fine muslin.”

Yn rhyfeddol, mae Yesterday’s Fashion yn adnodd addysg am ddim, ac mae croeso i bawb ymweld pan fydd yn ddiogel. Yn y cyfamser, gallwch ddod o hyd a nhw ar Facebook.

Lluniau: Yesterday’s Fashion


Fashion through the ages in Carmarthenshire

We’re incredibly lucky in Carmarthenshire to have a wonderful collection of historical clothing and costume right on the doorstep.

Terry Smith is behind the collection, Yesterday’s Fashion, which is housed in two converted barns. The collection comprises of “…racks and racks of dress, Victorian, Edwardian and every subsequent decade…everything from head to toe, hats and shoes, underwear, coats, children’s dress and accesories and all the ephemera that goes with it…”.

Terry has been kind enough to help me with some of the research behind the Rebecca costume designs. I was particularly interested to learn about the crinolines in the Victorian age.

Terry told me that: “At the time of the Rebecca Riots the cage crinoline had yet to be inventd (patented 1856). A variety of petticoats would have been used. There were stiff ‘crinoline’ petticoats (not to be confused with the cage) of horsehair and linen (later cotton) and petticoats stiffened with starching, cording, straw braiding and even whalebone. They were worn in layers to give a smooth silhouette and could be topped with something like fine muslin.”

Amazingly, Yesterday’s Fashion is a free educational resource and you are encouraged to visit in post-Covid times, in the meantime you can find it on Facebook.

Images: Yesterday’s Fashion